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April 5, 2007

the fall of the house of new hampshire avenue

fire-3.jpg

Here's the text message you don't want to get from your boyfriend who lives 5,000 miles away: My apartment caught on fire...

It happened last week. The roof is destroyed, one of the roommates lost all his belongings and their clothes smell like a campfire, but everyone is safe.

I feel frustrated and helpless, so far away and unable to do more than send rallying emails and small, video-game-themed gifts.

fire-2.jpg

They have to find a new place to live now, and it will probably not be a place so big and so rent-controlled and so close to everything. (One block from Franklin and Vermont, for those who know LA.) There's a fundraising party this weekend, with drinks and entertainment and a playlist of possibly every fire-themed song ever recorded. I can't go, but maybe you can? Or maybe you'd like to donate goods or services? If so, please contact me or Friggles, the official party organizer and foster mom to the boys (contact info on the flier).

And one more thing: Don't forget to change the batteries in your fire alarm!


(Click the image to see the full party flier. If you're wondering about the name, a few nights before the fire, one of the roommates had his annual "Dress Like You're Rich" birthday party. Nowadays, while sorting through all their stuff, they mostly dress like they're fighting bioterrorism.)

April 6, 2007

japanese candy friday: ichigo daifuku and warabi mochi gummies

Ichigo Daifuku Gummy & Warabi Mochi Gummy

You may remember the Nobel candy company from their unsettling attempt to popularize a soy-sauce-flavored gummy. I'm happy to announce they are back with more strange gummies for the spring season, again based on popular Japanese snacks. This week I present a Nobel double feature starring Ichigo Daifuku Gummy and Warabi Mochi Gummy.

Ichigo daifuku is a popular sweet that at first glance seems to have been invented by a sugar-crazed fourth grader let loose in a well-stocked Japanese bakery. Consisting of a large strawberry coated in sweet bean paste then covered in a thick layer of whipped cream then wrapped in a thin piece of mochi and dusted with powdered sugar, ichigo daifuku is messy, soft, chewy, tooth-achingly sweet and incredibly good. Ichigo Daifuku Gummy is a small, cream-flavored gummy filled with a tangy strawberry sauce -- not so cavity-inducing, to be sure, but not so exciting or tasty either. I like the flavor of the creamy mochi with the strawberry sauce, but for some reason these make my throat hurt whenever I eat one, a weird tickly pain that I do not, it should be noted, experience when I eat an actual ichigo daifuku.

Warabi mochi is another well-known sweet, a popular snack eaten during warmer months made from warabi (bracken, a type of fern). Jiggly cubes of fern-flavored mochi are dusted in kinako, resulting in a cool, herbal, vaguely nutty and very light dessert. Warabi Mochi Gummy is a warabi-flavored gummy so subtly flavored all I taste is the kinako paste inside. While I'm happy to eat a candy that actually tastes like kinako (hear that, Aero-chan??), warabi mochi is not supposed to taste like kinako; it's supposed to taste like warabi. Where's the bracken, Nobel? Where's the bracken*?

Nobel gummies seem to be for the Japanese-sweets lover on the go, someone who doesn't have time to sit and enjoy a giant strawberry covered in five kinds of toothache or a plate of trembling fern Jello. Either that, or they are for very fastidious people who don't like to drip powdered sugar or kinako all over their nice suits. Japanese Sweets for Busy People. I suppose they get the job done.

Ichigo Daifuku & Warabi Mochi gummies

*My research for this review led to the disturbing discovery that warabi/bracken is known to be carcinogenic and has been linked to the high rate of stomach cancer in Japan. This is terrible news, as I love warabi mochi. Wikipedia, you are a blessing and a curse.

April 9, 2007

regarding the two dance gangs who come here on weekends

1950s dance gang

On Sundays when the weather is fine
they meet
at a park with a fountain in Nagoya.
For one hour,
they do their hair.
(slow flourish of comb
and hairspray and
blow-dryer powered by the generator
one of them brings)
For thirty-eight minutes,
they eat lunch:
egg-and-ham sandwiches from Vie de France.
They stretch.
(thin legs in black leather
bent
into sharp angles, like tricky geometry)
Then
(the crowd gathers,
reflected in black aviator eyes)
they dance.
They dance
like West Side Story
was lured into a dark alley
and repeatedly punched in the face
until it leaked out all its sweetness
on the dirty asphalt
but still remembers
who it is
what it loves
why it does what it does.
They dance
for the screaming teen-girl crowds.
(nonexistent)
They dance
like they did when they were fifteen,
all alone in their rooms.
Chuck Berry from a scratchy Sanyo,
white socks on tatami,
slippery.
Sneering in the mirror,
ballpoint pen for a cigarette,
wondering if it's possible to
go back in time
and cross an ocean
and do this, be this, here.

It is.

1950s dance gang plays it cool

April 13, 2007

will a dog in a straw hat convince you?

Dogs in straw hats

Tomorrow is the big bike trip, so there will be no Japanese Candy Friday this week. Instead, enjoy this picture of dogs in straw hats out for a Sunday stroll. And an update on the donation total: $1,120! I'm extending the donation deadline to the 15th, since I was too busy this week to post a reminder. For those who have already donated, your thank-you gifts are either on their way or packaged and ready to be mailed as soon as I get back. Once again I want to say how amazed I am at how much has been donated so far. Thank you! I'll be back next week with pictures of gaijin on granny bikes!

April 16, 2007

i miss the ocean already

Azaleas on the hillside and the second bridge

Home safe, not too sore, and completely content after an incredible weekend. A full update coming soon!

April 19, 2007

building a house by bicycle part 2

After an inauspicious first night in Onomichi at a run-down hotel that inexplicably filled with a sewage smell right around check-out time, as if chasing us out of its narrow stairwells, we set off on Saturday morning to rent our bicycles and get started on our 77-kilometer ride along the Shimanami Kaido. Luckily the bicycles -- heavy, dented and completely unglamorous mamachari (old-lady bicycles) -- came equipped with three gears. That's two more than my own mamachari at home. Whee!

Our matching t-shirts

The twenty of us wore matching t-shirts for the ride, bright blue, unmistakable and completely nerdy. They proved handy for spotting each other from afar and for alerting passersby of our group solidarity. Everyone in Japan can appreciate a good uniform.

Sakura tree and the sea

After a ferry ride and a short time biking along a busy street, we hit the coast and from there, the path rarely ever left it. The Inland Sea was a sparkling turquoise, the road mainly flat and easy to bike, the weather -- despite predictions of rain -- sunny with a mild breeze. Perfect.

Crossing the second bridge

We crossed five bridges over the course of the day, and each one was prefaced by a short uphill ride, really the only difficult part of the day. (The picture in my last post is from the hill leading up to the second bridge.) By the third bridge, my friend Liz and I would take turns announcing, "It's time for a treat!" and then simultaneously throw our granny bikes into second gear. When it got really bad, we would additionally treat ourselves to third gear, but it was always a risk, as there was nowhere else to go from there but walking. Which we did, I am not ashamed to admit.

Kosan-ji

We made a lot of stops to take pictures, buy citrus fruits (which the area is famous for), eat lunch on the beach and look at local sights, like the vibrantly colorful Kosan-ji temple. By lunchtime, we were two hours behind schedule and in danger of being too late for the local paparazzi who had promised to meet us at our destination. But I don't think anyone really minded.

The looooong last bridge

Fueled by peanuts and raisins, I crossed the last bridge as the sun was setting. Jelly-legged, saddle-burned and completely content, I met the others at the final meeting point and found out the paparazzi had failed to show, so everyone was getting ready to head to Matsuyama for dinner and a dip in Japan's oldest onsen. "Do you want to ride your bike to the station or take a taxi?" one of the trip's organizers asked me. He didn't have to ask twice.

Best 600 yen I've ever spent.

--------------------------

For the how and the why of this bike trip, see this post. For those who are interested, our group of twenty people raised a total of $4,000 for Building Communities!

And all my photos from the trip can be found here.

April 20, 2007

japanese candy friday: torokeru zeitaku kitkat

Torokeru Zeitaku KitKat

Fellow Japanese candyologist Carol recommended I try the new limited-edition KitKat flavored with brandy and orange which, despite my spotty history with both KitKats and alcoholic chocolate, I did. And, happily, it's one of the best limited-edition KitKats I've had.

This particular KitKat is not called Brandy & Orange, as would seem logical; instead its name, embossed in fancy gold, is Torokeru Zeitaku, which means something like "melting luxury" or, if the English subtitle is to be trusted, "For a Moment of Precious Indulgence." That's rather a mouthful, as far as candy names go.

But what a mouthful it is! When milk chocolate coats an orange-flavored cream and brandy-tinged wafer layers, it tastes like a regular KitKat and a Chocolate Orange had a baby, then shared a little post-birth drink to celebrate. Creamy with a citrus tang, it doesn't taste obviously of brandy, but leaves a warm and pleasant buzz at the back of my throat. (It's labeled as 1% alcohol and asks you not to drive after eating it in zero-tolerance Japan.)

Instead of in the usual four-piece pack, these come in a smaller box with only two slightly thicker, individually wrapped pieces. I guess it's to save you the embarrassment of getting trashed on For a Moment of Precious Indulgence KitKats. The slightly bigger size and intensity of flavor means I can eat one and feel satisfied. (Unlike the Peanut M&Ms my mom sent me for Easter, which go down way too easy. Maybe I just miss American candy.)

So thanks, Carol, for your intrepid fieldwork and convincing endorsement! The candy-eating public is the better for it. Thanks also for alerting me to this Japanese KitKat-related tongue twister:

切手とキットカットきっと買ってきてね。
Kitte to kitto-katto kitto katte kite ne.
(Be sure to go out and buy stamps and KitKats.)

Now eat ten Torokeru Zeitaku KitKats and say it five times fast.

Torokeru Zeitaku KitKat

April 23, 2007

mottainai!

Water droplet character at the Ogaki Matsuri
Water droplet mascot at last year's Ogaki Festival.

This comes a little late for Earth Day, but nevertheless I've been thinking a lot about sustainability lately and how I can retain some of the better habits I've picked up in Japan when I return to the U.S., so I wanted to document some of the ways life in Japan has changed how I consume resources on a daily basis. (Mottainai, by the way, is a Japanese word that means something like "What a shame to see this go to waste!")

1. I hang my clothes up to dry. It seems like a small thing, but very few people in Japan own clothes dryers. Even apartment-dwellers like me wash their clothes in their tiny washing machines (often outside) and hang them up to dry on their balconies. Yes, it's annoying in winter or during the rainy season, when clothes can take two or more days to dry, and yes, I have to iron my cotton clothes all the time, but when I think about how a simple investment of five minutes of my day can save so much energy over the course of the year, the small drawbacks seem worth it. Plus, it makes me even more excited for sunny days because they are good laundry days!

Although National Hanging Out Day just passed, you can still check out Project Laundry List for some reasons why hanging up your laundry is a simple but effective way to save resources.

2. I don't own a car. Anywhere I need to go within my town, I get there by bicycle. Besides being a healthy and extremely pleasant (except in the dead of winter) way to travel, it also helps me from buying too much stuff. If the trip to Uniqlo requires a 30-minute ride each way rather than a quick 10-minute drive, it's not so easy to be bitten by the impulse to shop. Likewise, I can only buy as much as what will fit in my bike basket.

Outside of my town, I use Japan's incredible public transportation system and have never really missed having a car. I felt very smug about my car-less existence and the positive impact I must be having on the environment until I did a carbon footprint calculator online and realized my twice-yearly international flights create emissions nearly equal to what I save by not driving for a year. Doh! I am now considerably less smug. I do plan on biking as much as possible when I return to Los Angeles, though, and am thinking about buying a scooter instead of a car. Add to that the fact that I probably won't be able to afford international travel for awhile, and hopefully I will actually be making a difference by then.

3. I live in a small apartment. While quite large by Japanese standards -- three tatami rooms and one dine-in kitchen -- my apartment is much smaller than a two-bedroom apartment in the U.S., yet some of my neighbors fit two adults and three children in apartments the same size as mine. Most single people I know living in non-government housing live in one tatami room with maybe a small kitchen if they are lucky. The flexibility of the living space makes it work: furniture is small and portable; closets are large and can accommodate things not in use; futons are folded and put away every morning. The only time I wish for more space is when I have people over -- which explains why most social gatherings in Japan are in public places -- and sometimes I even wish my apartment was smaller so I would have more of a reason to not buy things I don't really need.

Less space means less energy spent on heating and cooling, though there are a lot of caveats to this point. On the one hand, I only heat my living room in the winter, which is undoubtedly more energy efficient than having central heat blasting through and heating rooms I'm not using. On the other, insulation is so poor that even the heated room is chilly, though this is permeability is a plus during the hot summer months. Also, I cannot say how Earth-friendly my kerosene-powered heater is, with its scary noises and noxious emissions which must be aired out of the room every three hours. But finally, I think my awareness of all these points is evidence of something in itself. I certainly think about how my apartment is heated much more than I did in a centrally heated home and am more likely to just put on a sweater than crank up the thermostat.

4. I don't use plastic bags at the grocery store. My supermarket sells reusable bags and has a point card with a stamp for every time you don't take a plastic bag. After 20 stamps, you save 100 yen! Okay, so at 5 yen a bag, you're not going to make money on this scheme, but it does feel good to know I have saved hundreds of plastic bags. Plus, my bag is bright pink and says "Working with nature" on it.

Plastic bags have become such a rampant garbage problem around the world, many stores and whole cities have banned them or started charging for them. If you already have too many, don't worry -- you can always knit and crochet with them.

5. I know exactly what I throw away. If you have ever been to Japan, you know how difficult it is to throw anything away. Not because everything is so cute you want to keep it forever (though that is sometimes the case), but because there are very few public trash bins, and the ones that do exist are separated into initially-confusing categories including, but not limited to, the following: burnable, nonburnable, PET bottles, cans, glass, paper and plastic. A trip to Starbucks usually ends with five minutes in front of the trash cans, separating your detritus into the appropriate receptacle. Most of the time, you find yourself carting the day's worth of trash home with you.

This is how trash collection works in my town: I receive a year's worth of trash stickers from my city hall in April. On trash day -- twice a week, but I only have enough stickers to take out the trash once a week -- I put a sticker on my bag of burnable trash and put it at the trash collection point for my apartment. If there is no sticker on the bag, it will not be picked up. If it is not a clear bag or is a bag larger than 45 liters in capacity, it will not be picked up. If it contains anything inappropriate, like something very large or obviously not burnable, it will not be picked up. There are no large outdoor bins where you can throw your trash; everything just stays inside your house until trash day. Nonburnable trash and recyclables (glass, cans and PET bottles) are stored inside until the night before collection day, just once a month. If you miss it, you have to keep it around until the next month's collection day arrives.

Does it sound complicated, maybe a little annoying? It can be, and there have definitely been times when I yearned for the simplicity of L.A.'s recycling program, where everything that can be recycled is just thrown into a bin, to be sorted later by people who are paid to do so. But then I think about my old roommate, who would just toss her unrinsed, obviously unrecyclable Styrofoam takeout containers in there, or the neighbor who used it as a receptacle for her soiled adult diapers, and I feel glad to have some sort of accountability. I can't just stuff everything into an opaque container and forget it was mine to begin with. When I buy things, I am also responsible for throwing them away and dealing with whatever guilt goes along with it.


I do think living in Japan has changed the way I think about my relationship to the Earth's resources. Not that Japan is perfect, of course. Goods are wildly (if beautifully) overpackaged, rice fields are heavily treated with chemicals, and people are just as obsessed with shopping as any other First World country. But when I return to the spacious shores of the United States, I'll take with me the good habits I've fallen into here, and the feeling that I am just one small person living a small life in a small place and should strive to leave a footprint on the Earth that is equally small.

April 26, 2007

nothing to snicker about

Snickerdoodles!

When I was young, snickerdoodles were my mom's signature cookie. Not only did they have the best name a cookie could possibly have to those under the age of ten, no one else's mom made them, which made them a rare and interesting commodity when shared with my friends. They remind me of fourth grade, that golden year when my youngest sister was born and my mom was on maternity leave, at home all the time and able to do all the stay-at-home-mom things I always wished she could do, like bake cookies for no good reason in the middle of the week and help pass out birthday cupcakes at class parties. It was a good year.

My mom generally bakes from two cookbooks: a 1960s edition of The Betty Crocker Cookbook -- full of garish Technicolor photos and so well-used the spine has completely given out -- and a 1970s edition of The Joy of Cooking. Her snickerdoodles, I know for a fact, come from the former, so I was so happy to find this recipe on the Betty Crocker website while thousands of miles away from my mom and jonesing for a good snickerdoodle.

I replaced the shortening in the recipe with butter (adding pure trans fats to my food gives me the heebie-jeebies and I haven't seen trans-fat-free shortening here) and the resulting cookie is very soft, but still nearly as good as my mom's. If you've never had a homemade snickerdoodle, make this recipe right away! It's like the cookie version of cinnamon-sugar toast, soft and buttery with crisp edges and the warm scent of cinnamon.